I have a friend who was given a winchester 1300 that shoots 2 3/4 and 3 in shells it cycles fine when I load the gun and unload it but when firing a shell the chamber locks and will not allow you to pump and load 2 and or 3 round without pushing the small button to load the first she'll so as of right now you have to shoot press small button pump shoot and repeat the gun had not been fired in several years it was broken down and cleaned we tried 3 in and 2 3/4 shells any suggestions?
Winchester 1300 cycling issue questions
- Thread starter fishingkid
- Start date
the spring is worn out or bent/broken most likly. I had a buddy that purchased a brand new mossberg 500 that did the same thing out of the box the spring was bent. we bent it back hand sanded/fit and it is still going strong. I also have a winchester 1200 that had a few bent parts inside. after some fine tuning it worked great. However if the spring or what ever is wrong with it is bad its probably not really worth fixing as it isnt really that good from the beginning as Sprig said.
Bring it to fine fire arms have them look at it. Probably just a part warn out. Also might want to really clean the bolt and use some CLP.
I had a shotgun that was having issues and I had it dip cleaned at a gunshop on wood side in Santee I think the process is called wet Maging. After that the gun has been flawless the dip clean must have got something out I wasn't seeing. That gunshop has switched owners a few times since then I don't know if they still offer that service.
I had a shotgun that was having issues and I had it dip cleaned at a gunshop on wood side in Santee I think the process is called wet Maging. After that the gun has been flawless the dip clean must have got something out I wasn't seeing. That gunshop has switched owners a few times since then I don't know if they still offer that service.
So... I shoot a model 1300. Love the smoothness and quickness of the action, love the way it fits, but it has giving me some problems along the way haha. I've pretty much just stuck with it for nostalgia. If I had to bet, your disconnector spring is broken or damaged, take a look at this video if you want to dive into the trigger assembly (first piece he removes). http://youtu.be/orfhDVzesoM
After you fix that, the next problem you will probably have down the road is the pump slide arms will break (terrible tack welds). This is the part the connects the forearm to the action. I'd preemptively pull that piece off and add A few more tack welds to the arms. Anyways, since I've performed those two fixes on my gun, I have not had another problem for 2 years *knock on wood*.
After you fix that, the next problem you will probably have down the road is the pump slide arms will break (terrible tack welds). This is the part the connects the forearm to the action. I'd preemptively pull that piece off and add A few more tack welds to the arms. Anyways, since I've performed those two fixes on my gun, I have not had another problem for 2 years *knock on wood*.
I am a shotgun armorer for a medium sized PD and the vast majority of our shotguns are Win 1200/1300 Defenders and they were put together sloppily. Are main issue are the trigger packs coming lose due to a screw on the left side backing-out. This screw holds the shell interrupter and the disconnecter in place and we find that this is the #1 cause for malfunction. The videos from Spartan765 on YouTube are a good reference and visualization tool. Following a check to make sure the gun is completely unloaded, field strip and clean the gun normally. On the trigger group (after cleaning) there is a slotted screw on the left side, remove that screw keeping the trigger group together and apply medium strength thread locker on the threads of that screw and place the screw back in the trigger group hand tight. Reassemble the cleaned and lubricated components using care with the ejector and making sure to get the transfer bars aligned correctly with the bolt assembly. If you have dummy rounds, use them for a function test. I hope this helps.
