Factory loads vs reloading ammo

[longbowhunter2]

OK guys I would like some input from experience fellas on this board.
There's a ton of conflicting data and conversation out there.
Let's start with why is reloading so much better at accuracy than factory loads.
Better bullet design? Better cartridge,
Better powder.
For example my Savage 243 recommend 75 gn federal loads.
For my specific rifle.
Rifling is 1-9-1/4

My old 308 Mossberg 800A is 1-12
Recommended is 168 gn
(Cost $100.00 45 years ago)

 

[Lungpopper]

Starts with case prep. Truing up primer pockets , flash holes, case necks.
Weighing and sorting bullets so they are all the same weights.
For me I weigh each powder charge twice to within 1/10 of a grain.
playing with different powders and powder charges to get the best velocity. Then fine tune the powder charge and seating depth for accuracy.
Don’t think you can just load some bullets and have a better load. You’re going to burn a bunch of time and powder to find an optimum load

 

[longbowhunter2]

Fantastic. So beside the press, die, scale, do you use height Gage.
What type tools to do the case hole prep. Is a small precision lathe useful, or drill press, or small mill. Little more info on the case prep. So basically weight balancing the bullets. Do you remove any Metal without effecting geometry or just sort them in different piles of the same weight. Is powder trial and error.
So how do start there.
Sorry for all questions.

 

[longbowhunter2]

This would be a great hobby to keep me busy. Thinking going back to my roots and get small precision equipment. Turning and milling.
Plus reloading. Save bucks on the cost.

 

[Aeon]

Factory ammo is built to sami specs. It has to chamber and go boom in every rifle. Everything has to be a bit undersize and a bit short to make sure it can chamber.

In the Precision game ammo is loaded to exacting standards in some cases to the nearest ten thousandth of an inch. Powder weighed . Bullet seating depth are set based off of hours and hours of testing.

No, mils and lathes are not used. Cases are done with small tools. Bullets are just separated and sorted. Cases are sorted by weight as well. Getting to a inch is easy. Getting to A 1/4" cost a lot of time and money.

 

[longbowhunter2]

Factory ammo is built to sami specs. It has to chamber and go boom in every rifle. Everything has to be a bit undersize and a bit short to make sure it can chamber.

In the Precision game ammo is loaded to exacting standards in some cases to the nearest ten thousandth of an inch. Powder weighed . Bullet seating depth are set based off of hours and hours of testing.

No, mils and lathes are not used. Cases are done with small tools. Bullets are just separated and sorted. Cases are sorted by weight as well. Getting to a inch is easy. Getting to A 1/4" cost a lot of time and money.

Very well thank you. Personally not after 1/4 MOA, yet maybe later. For starters start reloading.
But answers my questions.
Time I have money not so much.
Until next year.
Thank you for reply.
One more questions, how do pick what gun powder to use. Something in specs. What is the major difference.

 

[TRICER]

Get a reloading manual from Barnes or just go on their site most of the info is on on there. Different powders burn at different rates etc.

http://www.barnesbullets.com/load-data/

 

[longbowhunter2]

Get a reloading manual from Barnes or just go on their site most of the info is on on there. Different powders burn at different rates etc.

http://www.barnesbullets.com/load-data/

View attachment 36760

Very good thank you Drew.

 

[TRICER]

Lee I love the superformance powder for 243 and 223.

 

[longbowhunter2]

Thank you all very much.
That was very enlightening.
Take some notes and start from there.

 

[longbowhunter2]

For got to ask about bullet seating vs the actual chamber seating dimensions.
Kind remember using a Gage to actually measuring it.
Making the cartridge 15 mils smaller.
What do out all use?

 

[cadeerhunter]

Really depends on what you want to do. Reloading can be taken very serious from the brass, which primer to which powder. You can take a 270 cal gun and have 3 of them and not all 3 will shoot the same recipe. Different primers burn hotter than others, powder from slow burn to fast burn. Also, depends on what you want to shoot ie: 100 - 200 yds or you want to be a Seal sniper out to 800 yards. Reloading books put you in a general idea but if you want to take serious you have to practice with many different powder charges to dial in.

 

[just_ducky_1]

I’m no god to reloading but I’ve got a few guys started and it’s all from what I’ve learned from others on here. If you can do it, go over to someone’s house and see what they have and how they do it. I gave a class to my club and they really appreciated it. I’d be glad to let you look at my set up anytime.

 

[longbowhunter2]

Really depends on what you want to do. Reloading can be taken very serious from the brass, which primer to which powder. You can take a 270 cal gun and have 3 of them and not all 3 will shoot the same recipe. Different primers burn hotter than others, powder from slow burn to fast burn. Also, depends on what you want to shoot ie: 100 - 200 yds or you want to be a Seal sniper out to 800 yards. Reloading books put you in a general idea but if you want to take serious you have to practice with many different powder charges to dial in.

Cadeerhunter
Just getting my beak wet.
I have a long road to start
The advice here is very valuable.

 

[longbowhunter2]

I’m no god to reloading but I’ve got a few guys started and it’s all from what I’ve learned from others on here. If you can do it, go over to someone’s house and see what they have and how they do it. I gave a class to my club and they really appreciated it. I’d be glad to let you look at my set up anytime.

Ducky
Thank you for generous offer.
As soon as deer hunting is done.
I like to see your set up.
How is this for a starter set up.
https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/9...W7E6gvlGyp9eSOln0gi5hPOqYXmFJGvcaArzyEALw_wcB

 

[longbowhunter2]

Also for anyone else who, is looking at this post these are my thoughts.
#1) Safety
#2) measure 3 times
#3) don't make mistakes.

Where as I am starting as a newbie.
I have a back ground with similar
Precision design and mfg.
So following safety and required proceedures is not uncommon for me.
So as newbie I will be very conservative in my reloading.
Until I have enough experience to
Know what I am doing.
Crawl, walk then maybe run.

 

[Aeon]

https://www.hornady.com/reloading/p...tools-and-gauges/oal-gauges-modified-cases#!/

Get the micrometer from harbor freight. They are as accurate as the fancy Japanese models.

 

[Aeon]

The rock chucker kit is good to go, check craigs list they come on all the time.

 

[longbowhunter2]

With politics results I may do purchases sooner.
Best place to buy
Primers, cartridges, powder, and bullets. Best bang for the buck.
Looking for starting out.

 

[just_ducky_1]

Fine Firearms