Pup playing with bird too long

QuePasaJames

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Nov 8, 2016
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Hey guys, I'm a new dog owner. My wife and I adopted an 8 month old golden retriever from a friend, and he's just under 10 months now. First thing's first: he's an amazing dog! In the 1 1/2 months we've had him, he's come a long way with basic obedience and bird training. He's 100% hooked on birds.

I've been using the book "Retriever Training" by Tom Dokken. Our dog, Archer, is advancing the way the book has laid everything out. We started gun training with dead birds, and he's still doing great. We've shot 22 LR rounds and he's not flinching one bit. We've started 22 Mag rounds, and he's still not flinching. My wife is the thrower and shooter. We've done it from 40, 30, 20, 10 yards, and from behind the dog. He's going after the birds, no problem, except....

He's still thrashing the bird around and running in circles, hesitant to give it back to me. Id say he's still doing this about 80% of the time. He's on a check chord, so I can still wrangle him back to me, but he rarely makes a straight retrieve back to me. We're still using treats every time as incentive to come back, but he still wants to play with the birds.

Is this problem just going to fix itself over time, or do I need to do something different??? I know he's still fairly young, and its been only about 3 1/2 weeks since he's been introduced to birds and bird wings.
 
To him it’s a toy and a game. He’s playing fetch and keep away. You should concentrate on obedience training the most at first. And take everything slow. I think you might be rushing the process a little to fast.
He needs to learn each command properly before he can put it all together.
 
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Obedience and recall always come first. If you want to keep him birdy use a wing on a string attached to a long pole and play with him that way just keep it out of reach and always stop with him wanting more so that he does not become bored. As far as retriever training goes get yourself a low long table (3' x 8') so that you and he are at eye level with each other. Each long end of the table should have a pole about three and a half feet above the table top with a cable stretched between the two poles and a piece of chain about two feet long, one end of the chain should have a pulley attached to it that the cable will run through and the loose end should have a quick release clip. You now have a training table that you can keep both hands free while you work with him by attaching the chain /clip to his collar. If he tries to get off the table he will hang himself, Let him do it and have him hang for a few moments he will soon learn that jumping off is uncomfortable and will stay on the table.

Start with a short section of 3/4" dowel. Place him on the table attach the chain to his collar and grasp his collar while you work the dowel into his mouth. If he won't open his mouth use the hand that is grasping the collar to pinch his ear flap with your finger nails, when he yelps shove it in and hold it there while you praise and pet him you may have to hold his mouth shut with your free hand to prevent him from spitting it out. Once you are achieving reasonable success with that start walking him down the table with the dowel in his mouth. Do whatever it takes to keep it in his mouth and walk him. It will be hard for him at first but he'll get the hang of after awhile. Keep at this and increase the diameter of the dowels until you are able to get him to hold a retrieving dummy and walk. Eventually you will be able to do this without holding his collar. Keep the sessions short and always quit on a successful note. I usually stop when I get three good consecutive behaviors in a row. Always praise him when you get what you want.

Now its time to break him in on birds. If he is a chomper as you have described you will need to build another tool. Get a piece of closet rod about 8" or 10" long and stud it with a few dozen finishing nails, the nails should protrude out from the rod about 3/4" to 1". Wrap the rod with heavy stiff wire like a coil spring that is roughly the same diameter as the outer ends of the nails and attach the wire at each end of the rod. take several clipped wings and tie them to the rod so that the entire rod is covered with the wings without the nails protruding. Use this just as you used the dowels and dummies on the training table he will learn very quickly that it is uncomfortable to chomp the feathered dummies and will stop. Now try using a dead bird if he goes back to chomping the bird there are studded harnesses you can buy and place on the dead bird to emulate the studded wood rod.

Once you are satisfied with what is happening on the training table put him on the ground and repeat the training starting with the dowels and use a check cord to reel him in immediately if he doesn't come to you. Eventually you will be able to take him off the check cord and do this. Always praise and pet him whenever he does something right. As you can see its a process and it takes time to get it right. Retrieving is a job not a game so keep it serious and always make sure he knows you are alpha by not allowing him to play with the retrieving dummies. Don't play fetch with him either. There are other things you can do with him for play. Feel free to contact us if you have questions or need advice.
 
http://www.gundogsupply.com/fowl-dogs-1-dvd.html

time to change training methods, buy this and start at zero and work your way back up though each step. Do not skip steps till each is good and life will be much better. then move to disk 2 and keep going if you like. Its easy to learn and will give you all the tools you need to make a good hunting dog if he is able. side benefit you will talk like you are from Minnesota by the time you have your dog finished. ( good girl will be stuck in your head )

Treats are a no go imo

not saying Dokken's methods are wrong or bad but its just as important that you have good a method for you as it is for the dog. FowlDogs is something even a novice can do and have success even with a golden.

preview

 
Thanks guys for the advice! I've beefed up obedience training these last few days. I'll let you know how he progresses over the next couple months.
 
90% of the time it's the handler. Theirs so much to learn as a handler join a club and learn from other handlers.
Some tips...
Dogs don't think like humans.....you need to think like a dog......everything translates down the lead/check cord, don't get mad or frustrated.....calm and firm makes good handlers & dogs.
 
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Thanks to everyone helping out and giving me pointers! In the past few weeks, I've already seen a huge change in Archer. He so much more obedient after switching up training techniques. Since then, we started the first phases of collar conditioning and force fetch. I had my doubts, but I went to "High on Kennels," and Ruth really gave me the confidence to train the right way. Thanks Ruth!IMG_9342.JPG
 
"Too Long" for who? Pup is doing a victory dance. Maybe a decision should be made about is the dog a partner or an employee? Employees quit.
 
Keep at it! Training is a process but worth the reward !

Fowl dogs all the way l, not a big fan of the old methods.
 
"Too Long" for who? Pup is doing a victory dance. Maybe a decision should be made about is the dog a partner or an employee? Employees quit.

He's definitely a partner. Total house dog. My wife and I spoil him. I'd just prefer my birds be returned in one piece, not all ripped up with teeth marks haha
 

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