Nice garage..... I miss mine wish I had a place to store........ OH yea Thats a sweet looking rig bro! 
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8SteelTown
Guest
Midwest_Hunter said:Nice garage..... I miss mine wish I had a place to store........ OH yea Thats a sweet looking rig bro!
Funny how fast a garage fills up with "stuff". I have it sectioned off: 1 section with 2 couches, coffee table and big screen (20x15). 1 section with workout equipment (20x15). 1 section with workbench and outdoor equipment. Going to convert the workbench section into my hunting section... just need to build some racks. Thanks on the rig props. Gotta let it do work!
8SteelTown said:Midwest_Hunter said:Nice garage..... I miss mine wish I had a place to store........ OH yea Thats a sweet looking rig bro!
Funny how fast a garage fills up with "stuff". I have it sectioned off: 1 section with 2 couches, coffee table and big screen (20x15). 1 section with workout equipment (20x15). 1 section with workbench and outdoor equipment. Going to convert the workbench section into my hunting section... just need to build some racks. Thanks on the rig props. Gotta let it do work!
Sounds like you have a massive garage... I was not under the impression that San Diego knew what a garage was.. ;D
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8SteelTown
Guest
8SteelTown said:
It's a 3 bay with 2 of them being pretty dang big. I'm north of most of you guys, in Menifee area (about 15 miles north of Temecula).
Went sighting it in on Sunday. Took me about 8 rounds to find the target (which was pretty small at 24" tall by 8" wide at 200 yards). I was shooting low the whole time by about 4". The problem was I was all excited and kept yanking the trigger. I still haven't lightended the trigger pull yet (want it about 3lbs). Pretty sweet shooter! I'll get better in time...
Once you get used to the kick you'll close that circle down a lot. That's an accurate rifle. Eventually you'll be an accurate shooter. Keep at it.
I've got the Nikon Buckmaster 4.5-14X40. With my custom .30-06 ammo, I can click in first shot hits on a 6" plate from 100-600yds. It's a great scope, tracks BEAUTIFULLY, and got it for I THINK $329 on amazon.
It does have a BDC reticle....I got mine in mil dot. However, I would recommend, for hunting, go with MOA. The turrets are MOA, and its a little simpler to make adjustments when the turrets and reticles match. With the Spot On app (iPhone or Android) you can easily enter your dope and it will tell you where to aim.....Or, you can do the map and make your own dope card to stick on the inside of you lens cap. I've got mine dialed in for hunting from 25-500 yes in 25 yard increments with my custom .30-06 180gr Barnes TTSX bullets.
It does have a BDC reticle....I got mine in mil dot. However, I would recommend, for hunting, go with MOA. The turrets are MOA, and its a little simpler to make adjustments when the turrets and reticles match. With the Spot On app (iPhone or Android) you can easily enter your dope and it will tell you where to aim.....Or, you can do the map and make your own dope card to stick on the inside of you lens cap. I've got mine dialed in for hunting from 25-500 yes in 25 yard increments with my custom .30-06 180gr Barnes TTSX bullets.
I have the exact same scope (including mil dot reticle) on my .30-06. Great glass, but the turret clicks aren't accurate as yours are. They are a little over 0.4 MOA per click instead of the 0.25 as advertised. I've had other low- to midrange scopes that behave like that so before you assume the clicks are accurate, check at the range.B W E said:
My 2 cents
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for Mil-Dot or MOA adjustable Turret Scopes
from my research the scope has to have exact adjustment on the turrets. in other words when the scope & rifle gets zero out at 100 yards right.
but now the target is at 200 yards you adjust the MOA by clicking up a number clicks.
take the shot , but now you want to return to zero right . guess what is not back at zero.
because there is too much backlash in the threads.
so the scope needs to have exact thread backlash so it returns to zero every time.
also it has been mentioned to me that the straight power scope has better optics then the variable scope optics of the same price because it easier & cheaper to manufacture.
hope this helps.
from my research the scope has to have exact adjustment on the turrets. in other words when the scope & rifle gets zero out at 100 yards right.
but now the target is at 200 yards you adjust the MOA by clicking up a number clicks.
take the shot , but now you want to return to zero right . guess what is not back at zero.
because there is too much backlash in the threads.
so the scope needs to have exact thread backlash so it returns to zero every time.
also it has been mentioned to me that the straight power scope has better optics then the variable scope optics of the same price because it easier & cheaper to manufacture.
hope this helps.
for the standard hunting scope that are zero out at the range. and then never moved again
does not have this problem. because once set it's never moved. hahaha scared ya hun.
really is hard to make sure we know what we get sometimes.
does not have this problem. because once set it's never moved. hahaha scared ya hun.
really is hard to make sure we know what we get sometimes.
8steel it's time to get the groups tight. Grab your gun tonight and set it up how you want to shoot. Run the action, move the safety to off and dry fire it. Only the area where your nail is on the trigger . Learn your Tigger even if it's set at 7lbs learn it. Do this 100 times for a week then go shoot again. Remember do each step just like it's real
Ghost there is a test for scopes called the box test. Scopes that fail that test are broken. Most quality scopes have no problem. You draw a box moving the turets up and down left and right.
That said if you only shoot under 400yards you have zero need for turrets.
Ghost there is a test for scopes called the box test. Scopes that fail that test are broken. Most quality scopes have no problem. You draw a box moving the turets up and down left and right.
That said if you only shoot under 400yards you have zero need for turrets.
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8SteelTown
Guest
Aeon said:
This post was from August 2013 when I first got my rifle. I've since tightened my 200 yard grouping to about 6" from furthest flier to next furthest flier (not on bench rest). One of my Corporate bosses sent me a book on how to train to eliminate the human element and it helped a lot... no more trigger jerking. I did your suggested practicing on 7 lbs and now have it set to just over 3 lbs. Still, the BDC app through Nikon isn't the best thing ever... yes it's cool and all, but it's a pain in the arse if you're having to shoot on the fly and only have a few seconds to steady and shoot. Depending on the bullet you're shooting, my zooms to 4-9 will obviously change the distance each circle represents. The issue is, if I have it on 6X zoom, each circle is basically 100 extra yards. Zero at 200, 1st at 300, 2nd at 400, 3rd at 500, post at 680 or so. so it's easy reference to stay on 6X zoom. But trying to hit a juvenile pup facing you at 400 yards on 6X zoom sucks. Hard to decipher if the circle is on it and the littlest bobble gives enough lift or drop to miss the small target. I'd rather not have a sheet print out to show my 9X zoom and they aren't that easy to remember what each one represents... adding to it, if I have a shot inbetween the drops, the ratio of distance isn't the same and you're basically guessing and hoping for the best. Otherwise, I have to have a printout of each zoom level so it'll show super specific distances along the reticle bar and circles. Again, too much to process between identification and shot. Yotes up by me don't wait around for you to reference your ballistic records. ;D Not complaining at all... just maybe should've done some more research before setting myself on this one... still practicing with what I have and am getting better. I just need to figure out the brass tacks. Maybe stay on 9X zoom and just get really good with those distances. If I have something at 200 yards or less, it wouldn't matter if I back the scope down, cuz zero is zero.
Leupold web site about front vs rear focal points:
it's my understanding it's better to have a front focal point to retain the reticle mil dot spacing.
hahaha I just learned this recently.
9. What is the difference between a front focal plane (1st focal plane) reticle and a rear focal plane (2nd focal plane) reticle?
Most riflescopes utilize a rear focal plane reticle design, creating a situation where the apparent size of the reticle does not change as the magnification is adjusted. In these scopes, the amount of target area covered by the reticle is inversely proportional to magnification; as the magnification is increased, the amount of target area covered by the reticle is decreased. This can be seen by looking through a variable magnification scope and increasing the magnification setting. As the power is increased, the apparent size of the target is increased, but the reticle appears to remain the same size; the result is that the reticle covers less of the target when the magnification is increased.
Rear Focal Plane Reticles In general, hunting scopes are designed with rear focal plane reticles; this allows the reticle to appear bolder and heavier when set to low magnification, but appear thinner and more precise when set to high magnification. Most hunters set variable magnification scopes to a mid-level magnification for general carry situations, reducing magnification in low-light or heavy cover situations, and increasing magnification for longer, more precise shooting solutions. Rear focal plane designs allow the reticle to appear bolder in low light, making them easy to see and faster to acquire when the light is fading. This same property is advantageous in situations where heavy cover may be encountered, allowing easy differentiation between the reticle and vegetation. If a longer distance shot is to be taken, the magnification can be increased, creating a situation where the reticle covers less of the target, allowing the user to be more precise. If a front focal design were used, hunters would notice that in low-light or heavy-cover situations, the reticle would become much smaller and more difficult to see on low magnification; right when they need the reticle to be bold and easy to acquire.
Front Focal Plane Reticles Many tactical groups prefer front focal plane designs because common tactical reticles serve a dual purpose: a point of aim and a means of measurement. Reticles such as a mil dot are based on a specific subtension and require exact feature spacing to be accurate; if this type of reticle is used in a rear focal plane design, the scope must be used on a single, specific magnification (typically high power). Placing this type of reticle in a front focal plane design allows the operator to use the scope on any magnification while retaining the exact spacing of the reticle features.
it's my understanding it's better to have a front focal point to retain the reticle mil dot spacing.
hahaha I just learned this recently.
9. What is the difference between a front focal plane (1st focal plane) reticle and a rear focal plane (2nd focal plane) reticle?
Most riflescopes utilize a rear focal plane reticle design, creating a situation where the apparent size of the reticle does not change as the magnification is adjusted. In these scopes, the amount of target area covered by the reticle is inversely proportional to magnification; as the magnification is increased, the amount of target area covered by the reticle is decreased. This can be seen by looking through a variable magnification scope and increasing the magnification setting. As the power is increased, the apparent size of the target is increased, but the reticle appears to remain the same size; the result is that the reticle covers less of the target when the magnification is increased.
Rear Focal Plane Reticles In general, hunting scopes are designed with rear focal plane reticles; this allows the reticle to appear bolder and heavier when set to low magnification, but appear thinner and more precise when set to high magnification. Most hunters set variable magnification scopes to a mid-level magnification for general carry situations, reducing magnification in low-light or heavy cover situations, and increasing magnification for longer, more precise shooting solutions. Rear focal plane designs allow the reticle to appear bolder in low light, making them easy to see and faster to acquire when the light is fading. This same property is advantageous in situations where heavy cover may be encountered, allowing easy differentiation between the reticle and vegetation. If a longer distance shot is to be taken, the magnification can be increased, creating a situation where the reticle covers less of the target, allowing the user to be more precise. If a front focal design were used, hunters would notice that in low-light or heavy-cover situations, the reticle would become much smaller and more difficult to see on low magnification; right when they need the reticle to be bold and easy to acquire.
Front Focal Plane Reticles Many tactical groups prefer front focal plane designs because common tactical reticles serve a dual purpose: a point of aim and a means of measurement. Reticles such as a mil dot are based on a specific subtension and require exact feature spacing to be accurate; if this type of reticle is used in a rear focal plane design, the scope must be used on a single, specific magnification (typically high power). Placing this type of reticle in a front focal plane design allows the operator to use the scope on any magnification while retaining the exact spacing of the reticle features.
Aeon said:
Aeon
I would like to know more about this box test. do you have any links on the info.
learn something new every day.
yes I am looking at mid range distance for my future needs.
Bonejour said:
hahaha Bonejour I saved the link to review it at a later date.
thanks for the Link buddy.
I hadn't heard of the box test till Aeon mentioned it. Great idea! But I've been so busy hunting I've pretty much limited my range time to sighting in specific rounds for specific hunts, till last night. Msteiger and I took my Lead Sled to a range near his office. He was just checking his scope after it took a fall. But I've put a new Zeiss 5-25 Conquest HD on my .223 and wanted to check out the turrets for MOA accuracy. By the way, big thanks to John and his staff at Fine Firearms for mounting it for me. The .223 is a Tikka T3 Lite also from FF, which is giving me outstanding groups with 55gr Barnes factory ammo. Anyway, this scope is clutch. Beautiful clarity and color, and the turrets are right on the money. Thanks Bill for the tip!Aeon said:
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