Trying to Get it Right

[MrBamboo]

Have been reloading for some time, however I have tried several different powders (RL-19, H4381SC & H4350) for an '06 using 180gr Accubonds. The groupings are OK at 100yds, I have loaded H414 and am going to go back out. Also, I was unable to put more than 60.5 gr of powder in the case and the loads were supose to go to 62gr. How do you "Stuff" the powder into the case??? Does anyone have any "Pet" loads for a 700 '06?

 

[Aeon]

stuffing aka compressed loads are not ideal, you can use a drop tube to use gravity to get the powder settled in the case but eh doubt that is your problem at the moment.

62gr of anything would be super stuffed and not advisable. a good rule of thumb is trying for near 100% case use uncompressed.

your jumps in powder charge were to big to see any nodes, 59 is a nice tight group about as good as your going to get out of a factory rifle. If you are in love with that powder i would chase around that in .2 gr increments and see if that is a node you can live with. 59 is just about 100% capacity see how that works.

what are you running for a rest? you can chase your tail for a long long time unless your rest something you can reproduce the hold each time and your form is good. what is the twist on your tube? are you stabilizing the bullet correctly

 

[TonyS]

Aeon is dead on. Without a stable rest the whole thing is guess work. It has to be the same every time.

 

[MrBamboo]

Oops, not all the photos were there, here is H4530. As to shooting, I have a front and rear rest (Prottek) and put a level on the scope.

The rifle is a 700CDL that I put a Bell and Carlson stock on had a brake installed, then am using Talley rings and a Nikon Prostaff 3.5-14x40 scope.

I like the grouping of #2 for H4350, but the velocity is low. I am preparing for a Dec-Jan Elk hunt in Colorado, So that is why I am asking.

 

[Aeon]

Can not tell, so maybe you entered a node then walked out of it. maybe see if you can find the next node with the H4350. Make sure you understand how to read pressure signs and to stop if you see them.....

Honestly 1" for a factory tube is great. Make that your goal and get the velocity you want.

The effort to get from 3" to 1" is easy. You are already there. To go from 1 to 1/2 or even less is a long and sometimes futile endeavor. Fancy digital scales, bullet sorting, annealing, in a custom built gun. It's a fun ride but one that takes time and lots of money.

Do you understand the idea behind a ladder test?

 

[NBK]

IMR 4064 is the powder of choice for the venerable 30-06. Also I have never heard of H4381 (H4831 perhaps?). And with that said, your .58" group is quite nice for a factory barrel.

 

[MrBamboo]

Thanks for the input.

Was shooting using the OCW idea to see what powder to keep using then go out to 200 or 300 to then do the real "Ladder" test using a chrono to get the real speeds since all the speeds listed on the target are derived from the Nosler Reloading Manual.

 

[MrBamboo]

Oh, If this is "Slight" pressure from Factory loads, then I have never seen sighs of High pressure.
Especially since it flowed brass on my bolt face and put 2 holes in it and filled them with brass after it rolled the primer lip out of the case. . . . another one bites the dust . . .

 

[Ofdscooby]

I had a 700 in 30-06 with a factory barrel and a brake and it shot 165 gmx’s very well with 4350 If you haven’t bedded your rifle though that can shed a ton off of your groups.