Another chirp from me...The powder manufacturers loads are almost always VERY conservative. It's in their own interest you don't blow up a rifle. The best data comes from the manufacturer of the bullet you are using. They test THEIR bullets with several powders. NOW, check their data with what YOU are shooting. Most of their data comes from a 24" barrel. Most of us don't shoot 24-inchers. I usually drop about 200 feet of velocity from their figures as a ballpark guesstimate and then confirm my final most accurate load with a chronograph. I generally start with the powder they found as most accurate and go from there. I start at the lowest recommended load and load four rounds. I then go up a half-grain and load four more, continuing on until I reach the max load. Each four-round group of finished rounds are put in snack-size baggies and labeled with a felt-tip marker. I also make up one target per load using 8.5 x 11-inch cardstock paper with a 3" stick-on bullseye and labeled with the powder and bullet info. That way, you can lay all the targets out after you shoot and see what the bullets are doing with the different loads. In a perfect world, the patterns will start out larger and then get smaller as your load increases and then open up again. With the targets side-by-side, you can see exactly where the best pattern is. Make up a 5-round packet of that load to confirm the group size and use a chronograph to get the velocity. Done! I usually use at least two powders, usually three, to see which powder works best in my rifle. That's the key...what works best IN YOUR RIFLE. I can give you my best load, but that doesn't mean it's going to shoot best in yours. My son and I have identical Ruger American's in 308 caliber. The "best" load for each is a half-grain difference. Since the patterns vary by less than 1/4", he shoots my load since I'm building them and he generally "borrows" ammo from me anyway.