They have bows that can adjust from 15-70 Lbs. Just get one of those.
OH!!! And get a very secure on-board Quiver !
The one that came on my bow...it just sort of cantilevered into place and had these two rods that were covered with rubber then locked-in with a little friction into these two slots/notches on the part that was mounted to the bow.
Damn thing would drop the quiver sometimes when I had it strapped to the back of the pack! Brush would hit it or whatever. Had to backtrack a bit one time but thankfully found it. Went out next day and got a few on-board quiver. Found one that had a Dovetail that slide into the one mounted on the bow... then you cranked down on this knob/bolt, and it would tighten the two dovetail pieces within each other. That one was made by Fuse Archery. I dropped down to a 4-shot quiver. When I was practicing, prior shoulder injury would make my shoulders get tired/sore after awhile so i figured with 4 it'd weigh less for my shoulder to have to hold up. I think in the future I'll go back to 6. But 4 is enough. You can always have a quiver with a couple replacement arrows in your pack.
You're going to need a Tripod stool. (Make sure you'e getting one that can support your body weight!) And I'd also recommend getting a Klymit Kush inflatable sit pad. After a while of sitting on a Tripod stool, it's murder on your taint and inner thighs. Adding that pad in sure helps extend your sit time.
Also...get good quality hiking underwear that doesn't have any thick seams in them. And get a belt that has an infinitely adjustable belt buckle. I like the T-Buckle belts from Cabelas. Socks!!! With Merino Wool socks with Liner socks worn inside those.. I can hike TWICE as long before blistering/cracking begins! My feet stay drier in the heat too. I like Darn Tough brand socks and FoxRiver liner socks. With these two, the seam on the toes is the least obtrusive I've ever experienced on any sock ever! And I have to be very picky about that. The skin on my toes just like destroys, easily. I get cracked heal fairly bad and often from heredity and having a desk job where I sit at home barefoot all the time. These socks help tremendously with that.
Have a Havalon scalpel knife in your pack for skinning/cutting up the animal. And for your backup in your pocket, I've been bringing the Leatherman CX. I was bringing a Wave.. but it's too heavy.
Also, any knife you wear in a sheath on your belt... if the pommel (butt-end) of the knife sticks up above the belt-line of your belt... when you strap your pack on, the hip-belt will push on the butt of that knife and cause it to uncomfortably need to twist on your hip. So that's why I went over to folder with a pocket-clip... hence the Leatherman CX.
I use the backup knife to cut around the knees when removing the forelimb and for cutting and seperating the head from spine, and for the back-straps cut where you need to slide the knife along the ribs for separating the backstraps off the body. You can do it with your Havalon scalpel knife no problem... but when it rubs against bone it decreases the life of the sharpness of the current blade and You'll find you need to change it out for a second one before you're done. Doing it this other way, I can just use one blade on the scalpel, so much less hassle to fuss with when your hands are all bloodied up.
Meat Bags! Kifaru makes thes really cool super thin and super light Meat Bags that hold the meat in a nice columnar shape like it should be when stuffed into your pack! And they clean easily to! I still also bring an Alaskan Game bag. I put the head and hide in the Alaskan one since it's very stretchy. I then ziptie it closed around the antlers, that way the Meat Bees (Oh yeah.. just wait.. you'll love it when the Yellow Jacket come in to pester you at your kill! Don't worry, they don't really care about you... they just wanna get at that meat and blood. I've learned to NOT skin out the whole animal first before removing the meat. I've learned to instead skin out just the area near the body part I'm working on.. so that way there is less flesh exposed to the air for them to harass. That helped A LOT! Also... if you should choose to actually take the guts out, like if it's a really hot day, then be sure to throw the guts a bit away from where you are processing your animal, to help draw some of them away from you. ALSO... throw that gut pile and the left over skeleton away in some place hidden from view of other hunters/hikers! You don't need to be advertising to someone else that deer can be had at this particular spot you're in!